Sunday, July 7, 2013

Fungus among us

This post is for my good friend Elizabeth.  I will continue to add photos and any extra info I find out along the way.

I am always distracted by the various fungi growing on the ground and in on the trees.  Size, shape, and color always vary.  From what looks like a wad of bubble gum to a horn growing out of the ground (photo pending), I am always excited to find a new species.  There is one plentiful edible out here.  The books say it is unmistakable for any other mushroom, and hikers have told me that this mushroom has the texture of chicken.  It grows as "shelves" on dead oak trees and is orange on top and white on the bottom, and looks darn tasty to me.
Some of the mushrooms look so perfect and almost plastic, that it is irresistible to just poke it. 






Not fungus, but this was the Keffer Oak




"Tell me what you've seen."

It has been a while since my last post, but thanks for coming back!  So much ground has been covered since the last entry in Marion, VA at mile  marker 530.7. 

Often, when I can get a call out to my mother, before she lets me off of the phone, with her pen in hand and handy-dandy notebook ready, she will say "So, tell me what you have seen."  In a hurry to get off the phone, get back to hiking, and conserve phone battery, I will respond
    "ummm... the ground?  And some deer."
And the fact is, that in between land marks, that is the truth. The terrain in Virginia has not been that flat land conducive to 'flying' and 'making up miles and time' that we were promised.  The ground has been rocky.  And unsurprisingly, as we are still in the mountains, elevations still  yo-yo.  There have been absolutely gorgeous sites in the past 326 miles.  And just in time for the summer and Independence Day, moments that would make any American or visitor say the words "God bless the USA."

The day that this lot of the Lollygagger gang went through Atkins, Va, only about four miles of progress were achieved.  Iris and I have taken to calling the new group that we have been hiking with 'The Back of the Bus'; only the coolest kids sit in the back, the wise, and last to stroll into class. 
The day to start the slow days, started out rainy.  When the rain finally let up in the late morning, we set out, with wet tents clumsily packed away.  Not long after taking off, we came across an old aged farm with a sign stating the "Settler's Museum" was free for hikers.  We entered through the back gate and stepped back in time onto an old farm and were right outside of the farm house.  The sun had just started to break through the clouds, and the adventuring seemed ripe for picking, so we set down our packs, set up a clothes lines for drying things out, and set to poking around about the farm.  The farm house was locked but just about every other structure, the root cellar, well house, farm, wash house, etc. was open for the brave ones that dared to venture inside.  The bell out front and the fence around the main house reminded me of visiting my Granddaddy Havana, FL, just outside of Tallahassee.  I think that the only building no one wanted to go into was the meat room. 
We played around in the old 1870's school house and even read our way through the main museum welcoming house.  Just as we started to put our packs on and get moving, fate would have it that we would hear the faint sounds of an ice-cream truck!  It was wonderful. 
That evening, we crossed through Atkins, Va.  but not before we stopped for some food, and a small party with the greatest group on the trail.  We stayed up all night, swapping stories and singing our "all time favorite 'American' songs". 
The day headed out of Atkins was miserable.  It rained all day.  The ground was covered in skid marks indicating where the hiker ahead of you couldn't keep any traction because of the mud. Then, when I was at my wits end and absolutely done with the rain, with 3.5 miles left  to go to the shelter, a large white canopy tent with several of our friend's tents around it appeared in a clearing.  The Piedmont Appalachian Trail Hikers Club sets up for one weekend a year to provide some trail magic, and that was the weekend.  And was the most magical thing I had ever seen.  We were able to set up our tent and cook under the canopy to keep everything dry.  They even had some hotdogs left over and hillbilly French toast in the morning.  Perfect timing for a weary hiker. 
The next day we found a great stream, perfect for testing out m fishing pole.  I caught a small pan fish and pointed out a rather large snapping turtle which kept the guys occupied for a while. 
Walking for about 7 hours a day becomes a little monotonous after a while.  Your neck gets sore from looking at the ground as your pack pulls on it, your feet get tired, and your stomach gets loud.  Occasionally a rustle in the bushes will force you to stop in your tracks in time to see a deer staring at you, just as surprised to see you as you are to see it.  Or a bright orange salamander in the middle of the trail will cause a swerve to avoid trampling it. 
Then, just as you start to get comfortable and pick up the pace, something catches your eye and makes just about anyone jump out of their skin.  We all know what I'm talking about folks; snakes.  I have lost count of all of the venomous and nonvenomous snakes we have seen.  Makes one wonder how many have gone unnoticed.  My favorite creepy-crawly so far though, is the 10 inch salamander I spotted (heard it first) while hiking. 
Along the way we seen several "magic boxes"; these are large boxes that church groups or trail angels will leave along the trail and stock with either snacks and sodas or various other supplies.  As we came across one, we could see that nothing but garbage was left over and the box had recently been knocked over.  Some rustling forced me to look up just in time to see a bear scurrying away.  Apparently, I had interrupted his forage through the garbage.  I tried to get Iris' attention, but he was listening to music and the big guy had already disappeared into the woods. 
Wild edibles are beginning to pop up along the trail as well.  Whether you notice blackberries growing along the trail, or cherries smashed along the trail that have fallen from above, if you keep a weather eye, there is no lack of Vitamin C out here. 
For now, we will get a change of scenery.  We are headed out of Waynesboro very shortly and will be hitting the Shenandoah River and floating North for a little bit of R&R while making up time and catching some fish.  Talk to you all soon!









Hiking rocks!

Rocky trail and mountains make for beautiful views and waterfalls.  While a gorgeous view does not sooth ones knees at all, it does something to lift spirits that nothing else can.  (Though, if your brave enough to endure the cold water, a waterfall might help out sore joints.)
Dismal Falls is an absolutely gorgeous water fall, swimming hole, and fishing hole at mile marker 605.  On a hot day, the cold water is enough to make a weary hiker alive again.  This spot was perfect for camping (although we did not) and catching up with hikers that we had previously met on the trail.  A local fisherman pulled several trout out of the falls up to 8 inches long. 
One of the spectacular and underappreciated views of VA is known as Wind Rock.  This rock outcropping is at MM 660.  A small campsite with no water source is located with the summit.  This rock provided a spectacular view of the sunset and a great night's sleep.  When we woke up in the late morning and prepared our cowboy coffee, we all wanted one last look from the view.  Taking our time packing, we heard what sounded like large military jets.  Shortly after, we were treated with (and lucky to catch the glimpse) a quick fly-over by what looked like a F-16 (sorry, I have no idea if that was actually it) fighter jet.  Fully stocked and loaded.  These two jets were just above the tree line, riding the ridgeline.  It was and intense and exciting moment, just in time to get our adrenaline pumping.  This was the start of a week long ridge line run. 
For about a week, it seemed as though every time we descended, we ascended again to walk along another ridgeline.  Occasionally, you can look straight down on either side of you, literally on the tops of the mountains.  The most stunning experience was running along the top of the Eastern Continental Divide.  This meant that water flowing to the West of the mountain was bound for the Gulf of Mexico and water flowing to the east was bound for the Atlantic Ocean.  A due North view was a perfect 180 view with the sun setting in the West and the moon rising in the East.  The nerd in me still can't get over it. 
Shortly before reaching McKafee's Knob (one of the most well known spots on the trail), we conquered the Dragon's Tooth.  It was a long day.  The rocks of the tops of the mountains make every step alittle more tricky than the last.  The really, truly tricky part was that we reached the summit of the dragon's tooth just in time for sunset.  There is no water up there, and absolutely no suitable camping so a descent was still necessary... after dark.  We had no idea how long the hike would take us that day (it was highly understated in the guidebook).  So down we went.  In the dark, guided only by our headlamps, our group of about 5 hikers at the time began the scramble down the rocks.  It was about 2.3 miles of scooting, reaching, and climbing on the occasional rebar ladder step in place for the shorter hikers.  This would have been a blast without a pack and in the day time, but instead it turned into a test of focus and agility.  It was AWESOME! 
McKafee's Knob was great.  After the treacherous Dragon's Tooth, we expected much worse terrain than the day hiker ready, well maintained trail that we found.  None the less, 4.3 miles in the mountains in June, is still a hike worthy of the amazing view that we gained.  Enjoying the view after dark, we were just headed down the mountain, (much more prepared and without packs) when I heard a heavy drum overhead.  I grabbed the large groups attention and we were all stunned to see 22 C -130 Super Hercules military planes in a straight line headed due South.  Turns out it was the largest joint military exercise operation between the Air Force and Army ever and this was the largest formation of the super cargo carriers ever.  'Merica!!!!!!!!
Water has become a resource that we must plan for.  When we were in Georgia, water flowed freely and readily out of the rocks, cold and ready to drink.  Now, in Virginia and in the summer, any outdoor enthusiasts must plan for extra water usage and less water availability.  Even more, just about every water source in Virginia will require treatment of the water.  Iris and I were descending McKafee's Knob, a major landmark on the trail and in VA, when we saw a group of slack packers just about to the top.  The hike to the top is about a 4.3 miles one way.  It was mid June and hot when Mrs. Cindy and her young gentlemen passed us going up.  They had two empty water bottles and looked like they were ready to fall out from heat exhaustion.  We were almost off of the trail, and had just refilled our water bags.  We gave them what we had and they were more than grateful.  We found out that Mrs.Cindy's husband was in the middle of an expedition of another kind.  Bike Virginia is a group of bike enthusiasts that spend the majority of their days biking up and down the mountains.  It sounded like another great way to see the beauty of this state, while being able to shower every night... hmmm.  What killed us was the amount of day hikers we passed afterwards that had absolutely nothing going up that mountain!  I was reminded of the countless safety meetings last summer at work where all we spoke about was HYDRATION!   
Dismal Falls Waterfalls

 

ECD from the ridge


Audie Murphy Monument
Audie Murphy was a WWII veteran worth a Google

Dragon's Tooth from the road

McKafee Knob

A.T. photo 1 of 2 (gotta wait till  the end for the second)

This is Steelers Country


View from Wind Rock
Wind Rock

Wind Rock